Object of the Day

Pink Felt Doll Hat with Feather and Net Trim, 1938

This pink felt Doll Hat has the label “A Louis Miller Model”.

During the early part of the 1930s, hats where known to have wide brims and high crowns, however, around 1935 milliners developed a much different fashion for hats. Hats now were high crowned, tilted at an angle, smaller and had a flirtatious quality.

A famous designer at the time was Schiaparelli, who pushed the range of hat design and created hats that may have been described as “Zany”. Schiaparelli would also be the one to coin the Doll Hat.

The Doll Hat name is given to small types of hats in various styles and materials. It is usually worn forward and tilted above the right eye.

Designer Spotlight

YVES SAINT LAURENT, Peach satin pumps, 1970s

Algerian born designer Yves Saint Laurent, (August 1st 1936- June 1st 2008), transformed the direction of women’s fashion in the 20th century. Laurent’s career began at the age of 17 for the fashion house of Christian Dior following his success in an international design competition. Four years later, Laurent found himself the Haute Couture designer for the label at the unexpected death of Dior. In 1960, following a traumatic military stint, Laurent founded his line of clothing, shoes and accessories with longtime partner Pierre Berge. The satin low-heel pumps in the Texas Tech collection are from his later creations in the 1970s, reflective of the styles from the 1930s and 1940s.

Yves Saint Laurent, Getty Images.

Berge and Laurent quickly gained fame for crafting couture-inspired ready-to-wear women’s clothing. Most famous of his designs is Le Smoking Tuxedo Suit, a female pantsuit aimed at questioning the boundaries of gender fashions. Androgynous influences such as exaggerated shoulders and undefined waistlines characteristically defined many of Laurent’s creations.

Sketch of Le Smoking Tuxedo, Yves Saint Laurent 1966. From Telegraph Media Collection.

Le Smoking Tuxedo, Yves Saint Laurent 1968. From Harper's Bazaar Collection.

Yves Saint Laurent further revolutionized late century fashion by employing the first ethnically diverse models on the runway. Bold colors, geometric shapes and masculine silhouettes additionally reflected his ethnic inspiration.

The Mondrian Dress, Yves Saint Laurent, Fall 1965 from Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection.

Yves Saint Laurent is highly credited for his emphatic influence on women’s clothing trends throughout the 20th century, encouraging empowerment and equality by redefining feminine color choice and shape.

Object of the Day

Wool, “Lubbock” Baseball Uniform, 1909

This baseball uniform was worn by Isaac Reava McLarry, who was a member of the first Lubbock baseball team from 1901 to 1914.  The shirt and knickers (not shown) are made of a green pinstripe wool fabric.  Across the back of the shirt in green felt letters is the sponsor “Royalty and Wilson Garage.”

Object of the Day

Gold Brocade Tunic over a Gold Taffeta Skirt, 1875

This beautiful gold silk brocade gown was purchased from Le Bon Marché in Paris, to be worn by Miss Carrie June of Fremont, Ohio. She used this gown for the graduation ceremonies at Brandon College for Women in Ontario, Canada in 1875.

The store where the dress was purchased is still in existence.  It is one of the biggest and the oldest department stores in Paris. The building was designed by Gustav Eiffel and opened in 1852. Le Bon Marché specialized in luxury fashions for men, women and children but also in furniture, upscale gifts and housewares.

Object of the Day

Civil War Era Appliqued Quilt, 1860s

Made by Susan Robb

This appliquéd, embroidered, and quilted “Civil War” quilt was made by Susan Robb when her two stepsons, Theodore F. and Wm. Henry joined the Confederate army in early 1860s. Susan created this elaborate appliquéd quilt around 1862 when the outcome of the War Between the States was still unclear and she was hoping for the victory of the South. Surrounded by eight medallion blocks of pomegranate and tulip flowers encircling a “mariner’s compass” in the center is a pictorial depiction of two rows of Confederate soldiers under two Confederate flags, and her hope for the victorious return of her stepsons was symbolically represented by the pelican kicking the eagle off the pole.

Detail of the center design

 

Treasured by the Robb family members for over 100 years, the quilt was donated to the Museum in 1983. To date, several Robb family reunions have included a visit to the Museum to view and appreciate the beautiful work Grandma Susan created.

Detail of the tulup pattern

Object of the Day

Beaded and Embroidered Pumps, 1960s

These heavily white beaded and multicolored silk embroidered pumps are from the 1960s, designed by Harilela’s Shoes.  We have tried to find more information about the makers of these shoes, but have been unsuccessful.  Do you know anything about the designer?

Detail of the toe of the shoe

Detail of the heel of the shoe

Object of the Day

Black Velveteen Clutch Purse, 1940s

Made in India, this envelope style purse with embroidered flap shows a great example of gold thread embroidery called Zardozi.  Gold thread embroidery reached its peak in India during the height of the Mughal Empire under the rule of Akbar the Great (1556- 1605). The imperial style of metal thread embroidery was revived in North India after they recived their independence in 1947. However, the threads used today are generally silver or gold colored copper.